Carbis Bay: a white-sand beach vying for attention in the shadow of St Ives, and a place briefly in the spotlight for hosting the G7 Summit in 2021. But wait up, there’s a lot more to this Caribbean-esque cove than a pitstop on the way to its world-famous neighbour.
Formerly known as Barrepta Cove, Carbis Bay is growing a mighty reputation for a small beach town that’s home to some 3,000 residents. And it’s not down to its proximity to St Ives. Whether you’ve got a day to spare, or a long weekend, ditch the car at St Erth and hop on the scenic St Ives Bay railway with little but a beach towel, and hop off one stop before the end of the line. Here, at Carbis Bay, you’ll find there’s more than enough to do without stepping foot that extra mile to its glitzy neighbour.
Head down the hill towards the powder-white sands of Carbis Bay, and you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped into another country. Sub-tropical foliage gives way to a pearly shoreline, beckoning you to shed your footwear and pad barefoot towards the emerald ocean. Windbreaks, paddleboards and picnickers punctuate the shoreline, beside glassy seas yawning out into St Ives Bay towards the mighty dunes between Hayle and Godrevy lighthouse.
But it’s not just gob-smacking scenery that makes the beach so attractive. Thanks to currents forced towards St Ives’ headland that bring shoals of mackerel and a feeding chain of predators along with them, this is one of the best places in Cornwall to spot sea life close to the shore. Fin whales, basking sharks and even humpback whales have been seen here, as well as grey seals, sunfish and dolphins. And if you’re keen to get up close to the marine life, the beachside Ocean Sports Centre runs guided tours aboard stand-up paddle boards, kayaks and Hawaiian outrigger canoes with underwater viewers. You can hire kit and go under your own steam, but you’ll learn and see so much more under the wing of owner and ocean enthusiast Glenn Eldridge.
If you prefer a skin-tingling dip, join the swimmers that brave the bracing water temperatures. But we’d suggest donning a wetsuit along with a mask and snorkel, so you can stay in for longer and explore forests of kelp that cling to the rocky borders of the beach, looking for hermit crabs, pipe fish and the elusive blue-green stripes of a rayed limpets. Castaway on a paddle board and you can catch the views from above and below the surface.
In a place where sea life is in abundance, it’s little wonder that the menus of the beachside eateries are dominated by the just-caught local seafood landed by local fishermen. And thanks to a ‘promenade’ of eateries lining the sand, you can dine salt-stained and sandy-toed with the sea in sight.
Relax on the deck at the Med-style Beach Club Restaurant, sip cocktails in the swanky Walter’s on the Beach, or fill up on delights from The Deli and the ice cream kiosk. The ‘promenade’ is all part of the Carbis Bay Estate, a luxury hotel and spa that spills onto the sand, offering everything from afternoon tea to lavish dinners, all with show-stopping views. However, if you’re set on joining the beach picnickers, we’d suggest taking a ten-minute walk to the Yvette’s Pantry, for a salad box stuffed with whole foods, quiche and just-picked seasonal produce, served in a handy box ready for your beach adventures.
With so many restaurants popping up in Carbis Bay, serious foodies no longer need to drift to St Ives for world food, fine food and Michelin-starred cuisine. Just ten minutes from the beach, La Casita serves Catalan tapas rich in Cornish ingredients, while The Bean Inn caters for vegetarians and vegans, and The Hungry Gannet is all about local ales classic British dishes.
However, back at the water’s edge with its goldfish-bowl glass walls is Carbis Bay’s biggest culinary star – Adam Handling’s Ugly Butterfly. Here, dining out is a sensory experience that echoes the seasons and the scenery, with a zero-waste approach to fine dining. Every plate tells a story of Cornwall and sustainability, with each ingredient being sourced as locally as possible and being used from top to tail: Peels, stems, offcuts, seeds… everything is processed, preserved and used in snacks, sides and cocktails that will make your tastebuds explode. Relax into the experience with a Mai Tai made with millet offcut syrup and discarded banana peel rum, or a Roseland Vesper made with waste Cornish lemons and rosemary picked outside the door.
If you can’t stretch to Handling’s seven-course taster menu and are looking for somewhere a little more casual to dine away from the beach, just a mile from the shoreline you’ll find the cool new CARGO outdoor kitchen, where tunes and wood-fired food are served in a vibrant venue next to a 20m lido at Una St Ives. Whether you dine at CARGO or the all-day Una Kitchen, you can enjoy local wood-fired food, including Cornish mackerel caught in the bay.
As well as a place to eat and drink in Carbis Bay, Una St Ives offers an alternative place to unwind and relax away from the beach. Day passes are available to the lido, spa and leisure facilities (from £27.50), which offer a welcome retreat after beach adventures. The lido is heated to a welcoming 25C and surrounded by bean bags and sun loungers, with an indoor pool, jacuzzi, sauna and steam room beckoning you in from the elements on less clement days. If you’re set on Champagne and an infinity pool at edge of the ocean, there’s always the option to splash out on a spa day at the C-Bay Spa.
Set back from the beach on the other side of the bay you’ll find a much wilder environment to explore at the 40-acre site of Steeple Woods, which has been transformed into a thriving local nature reserve. Over the last 25 years more than 4,000 trees have been planted here, creating several bio diverse habitats and a natural environment where locals and visitors can relax and exercise. Everyone is welcome to join the volunteers as they continue to establish ponds, bird boxes and bee hives – a wonderful way to slow down and give back to nature as part of your holiday experience.
After all, whether you find yourself at the beach or in the woods, it’s the natural beauty of Carbis Bay that probably brought you here in the first place. Step out along the South West Coast Path in either direction – west to St Ives and east to Hayle – where you’ll find the mega-star attractions of these bigger, more popular beach destinations. But we think Carbis Bay will steal your attention away from its neighbours for the day, weekend, or an entire beach holiday in Cornwall.
