A Local’s Guide to the Lizard

Out on the edge of the ocean, the Lizard Peninsula is one of the few remaining places that feels uniquely wild in the UK. Home to the most southerly point in mainland Britain and some of the most spellbinding terrain imaginable, it is somewhere that wields a completely unique appeal.

If you’ve never been before, you’ll also find that the Lizard National Nature Reserve and Landscape is the sort of place you can’t really happen upon by accident. You have to know where you’re going to get there, and when you do, untold beauty awaits. How do you get there? The best advice is to just drive. And drive a bit more. And a little bit further. Perched on the edge of the UK, this rugged, wind-whipped realm takes time to find. And trust us, it’s more than worth it when you do.

The Scene

The home of Goonhilly Earth Station, Kynance Cove, serpentine rocks, Ann’s pasties, Roskilly’s ice cream, and some of the best fish barbecues in the county (we’ll tell you where in a minute), the Lizard Peninsula is anything but the quiet water-bound outpost it may appear on the surface. Spanning from the southern hem of Helston and the leafy boundaries of the Helford to Polpeor at the southernmost tip of the Lizard, it covers miles of unspoilt coastalscapes that inspire awe in even the most seasoned travellers. And there is always something going on to entice you and lure you in.

With something to see and do with every season, summer on the Lizard Peninsula is a colourful collage of regattas, festivals, events and the shenanigans of local fishermen. Golden-sun perfection sandwiched between the occasional day of rain. Alright, more than occasional. Meanwhile, winter arrives with mist-shrouded river valleys, crisp blue skies over empty beaches, and storm-pounded cliffs hewn by Atlantic waves – all soundtracked by haunting sea shanties and the call of the Lizard lighthouse’s foghorn, booming nostalgia and humility into the heart of every local. It’s pretty darn romantic.

Hot Spots

When it comes to the Lizard, you may think you are treading isolated paths, but there are stories everywhere. It’s home to some of the rarest flora and fauna in Britain, including Cornish heath and Cornish choughs. It was the site of the first ever live transatlantic TV transmission between England and America. Its coastline is littered with the wrecks of hundreds of ships. Even the ground beneath your feet tells a Royal tale – peppered with serpentine rocks only found in a handful of places on earth. It’s somewhere for the adventurers and the nature-lovers and those looking for a real taste of Cornish life. You won’t find city glamour, but you will find some of the most buoyant, vibrant communities in the county. It’s wild and full of heart: just perfect for those looking to shrug off normality for a while and embrace a life that runs on its own time.

To get acquainted with the peninsula, start your journey south of Helston, veering off east to explore the southern banks of the Helford River or southwest to follow the main road all the way down to the most southerly point. Seek coastal serenity in the coastal village of Coverack, or disappear into the Swallows and Amazons-esque worlds of Gillan and St Anthony. Follow in Poldark’s footsteps at Kynance Cove, or head over to Cadgwith to discover a real-life fishing cove with history coursing through its veins. Unwind in Mullion over sparkling seas, or discover a surprisingly vibrant nightlife in the Lizard village. Whatever you’re looking for, each of the peninsula’s villages and coves presents its own unique charm and a huge amount to see and do to both root you to the present and send you sailing through time.

Serpentine Rocks!

No, this isn’t a pledge to some sub-culture heavy-metal allegiance. Although we’re pretty sure there’s another pun in there somewhere too. It’s just that you really can’t write a guide to the Lizard and not explore its geology. For, if you go to the southern beaches of the peninsula, it’s likely you’ll see the beautiful igneous rocks known as serpentine. From deep below the earth’s crust, these rocks were pushed to the surface following the collision of two continental plates 300 million years ago, and became a focal point of Cornish industry in the Victorian times. Just head down to Poltesco to see the old serpentine works.

Only found in a few places around the globe, the Lizard’s serpentine rocks are even more special thanks to their beautiful colours, decorated in mottled and striped reds, greys and greens. Stunning when polished, serpentine became so popular for a while that even Queen Victoria and her adored Prince Albert fell in love with it. Recognising its polished beauty, the pair promptly used it to decorate their Royal homes, setting off a fire cracker in the world of high-end fashion and fuelling a short-lived craze in London for the rare rock. Alas, the craze didn’t last very long, but we still love it and you can still find small, independent serpentine turners in the Lizard village today.

The Beaches

One of the best things about the Lizard Peninsula is that you’re never further than a few miles from a beach. From pint-sized, pebble-dashed coves, to tropical beaches with mermaid pools and greenery-topped islands, to golden-sand shores shouldered by towering cliffs, there’s somewhere for every beach babe and thalassophile. For quintessential beach days, pack up a bag and head over to Coverack, Kennack Sands, Poldhu or neighbouring Gunwalloe and enjoy soft sands, glittering seas and proximity to a range of facilities, including a lifeguard service in summer.

For otherworldly scenes, make your way towards the Lizard village to visit Kynance Cove (where you’ll find said mermaid pools and islands) or Housel Bay (where you won’t find mermaids, but maybe a seal or two). Or, for the cutest coves, make tracks towards Church Cove (in the Lizard village, not Mullion) or Cadgwith Cove and enjoy the picture-postcard scenery of thatched cottages descending towards the shore. If you would like to stretch your legs along the beach, Loe Bar is a great choice; however, just make sure you don’t get into the water here, as the beach’s steeply shelving banks make it unsafe for swimming. For more adventures, you can also visit Mullion’s Victorian harbour, from which you can swim, paddle and kayak on calm, sunny days.

The Food

From a pint and a pasty to a meal of Michelin acclaim, the foodie scene of the Lizard peninsula hits all the spots. Hiding both well-known culinary institutions and coveted gems within its borders, it truly has something for everyone. Bibs (of the serviette and Michelin variety) at the ready…

Foodie Specials

First and foremost, if there is anywhere you should go to sample a pasty, it’s the Lizard. Never ones to shy away from a little bit of a polemic debate, we’re happy to stake (or, should that be steak?) our claim and point you in the direction of two of the best pasty producers in the county: Ann’s Pasties and Gear Farm. Beloved institutions creating pasty-encased deliciousness, they have hubs in the Lizard village and St Martin respectively, and are a must for all those looking to extend  their search for the best ever pasty. Afterall, everyone is happier with a pasty in hand. Or as the Cornish say, “gurt pasty, less teasy”. Or something like that.

For relaxed lunches in the summer months, it’s hard to find anywhere cuter than Fat Apples Café near Porthallow or The Old Cellars in Cadgwith (you can also visit Cadgwith’s famous fish barbecues on Wednesday evenings in summer). If you can’t wait for Wednesday, Smugglers Fish and Chip shop serve battered fresh catch for eating on the green in the Lizard village, or for big global tastes, Jumunjy Thai Restaurant and Bar at The Old Post Office on Cury Cross Lanes and Chimichangas Tex-Mex in Ruan Minor are firm favourites. To round off savoury bites with doses of sweet treats, Treleague Dairy and Roskillys are renowned for their incredible home-made ice cream. Just a stone’s throw from St Keverne, Roskillys is especially popular for its peaceful setting and range of ice creams, frozen yogurts and sorbets – currently featuring over three dozen flavours.

Cool Pubs and Restaurants

The Lizard Peninsula stars an array of cool pubs and eateries where the drinks and conversation flow at equal rapidity. To go where the yarns spin and taps spin even harder, pubs like The Old Inn in Mullion, The Top House Inn on the Lizard, The Halzephron Inn at Gunwalloe, Cadgwith Cove Inn in Cadgwith and The Shipwrights in Helford offer unparalleled atmosphere throughout the year. Meanwhile, The Greenhouse Restaurant in St Keverne, The Loft in Coverack, The New Yard Restaurant and Flora Café at Trelowarren, and The Ferryboat in Helford, promise great ambience and great food in equal measures for date nights. In Porthleven, just beyond the peninsula, you can also find a range of amazing restaurants, including the Michelin recommended Kota.

Beach Cafés

Surrounded on three sides by the sea, the Lizard Peninsula is blessed with some of the most beautiful coastline in the UK. Promise, we’re not just biased. Offering wonderful respite after days playing in the waves and tracing footsteps along rolling coastal path, all sorts of beach cafés await. For seasonal satiation, Mora Café on Kennack Sands and Kynance Cove Café are wonderful spots to savour a brew, while Poldhu Beach Café in Mullion and Wavecrest and Polpeor cafés at the Lizard’s most southerly point welcome you with year-round service. For some of the best food and sea views, visit Polurrian Hotel in Mullion or Housel Bay Hotel in the Lizard. Or, for heavenly fare on lakeside shores, you can also visit the lovely Trevassack Lake Café.

The Attractions

Family-Friendly Attractions

Looking for some of the best walks for a dream day of exploring? You can find them on the Lizard. Hoping for a quiet cove to unwind for a few hours, or somewhere to take the kids to let off steam? The Lizard has got your back. Looking for somewhere to eat lots of chocolate? You can do that too on the Lizard. Don your walking boots and head to the Lizard Lighthouse to learn about the peninsula’s maritime history, or make way to Lizard Windmill to uncover the secrets of the Windmill Gang.

Navigate to Terence Coventry Sculpture Park in Coverack for arty inspiration, Predannack Anti-Aircraft Battery and Museum on Saturdays for avian adventure, or for an overload of cuteness that’ll soften even the hardest of hearts, venture to the Cornish Seal Sanctuary in Gweek. Just above the Lizard, you’ll find every small (and grown-up) child’s paradise in the form of Flambards. Meanwhile, for that chocolate we promised you, head over to Mullion Chocolate Factory and let loose in the giftshop. You’re welcome.

Natural Beauty

Home to some of the county’s highest cliffs and most turquoise seas, pristine beaches and quiet heaths, the Lizard Peninsula boasts incredible natural beauty and really is a wilderness lover’s dream. For one of the most iconic Lizard landmarks, grab a camera and head over to Kynance Cove. You’ll need to arrive early in summer to avoid the crowds (we cannot stress this enough), but the views over the bay’s otherworldly islands crested with samphire and sea thrifts is hard to beat.

 Of course, you can also just follow the South West Coast Path and marvel at the never-ending reel of seaside scenes over your shoulder, looking out for the tell-tale signs of dolphins, choughs and even basking sharks for added wonder, if you’re lucky. For the crème de la crème, make sure you pay a visit to Polpeor at the Lizard Point too – not just for the views, but for the chance to position yourself as mainland Britain’s most southerly person! Just no teetering on cliff edges for the title, please.

The Helford

The Lizard Peninsula has a huge amount to offer, and you can easily spend days, weeks and years (I personally spent nine of the latter) exploring its every cliff and cove. That said, the peninsula is also extremely well-placed for exploring the Helford, skirting the southern banks of the Helford River. If you have some time, you can make the most of this proximity by exploring the emerald depths of this leafy idyll, decorated with low-hanging trees that droop moss-clad branches over silky river water. Parking close to the Helford Sailing Club (there’s a pay and display car park next door), you can hop on the passenger ferry and uncover each side on foot. Or jump in your car and take a day trip to see Helford’s highlights, such as the famous Glendurgan and Trebah gardens on the Falmouth side.

The Activities

Vitamin Sea

If you are a water baby, you are sure to find that the Lizard Peninsula satisfies every watery need. Learn to surf with Dan Joel at Poldhu beach or with Kennack Surf School at Kennack Sands. Take to the water, clamber the cliffs and jump into secret pools with the expert guides of Lizard Adventure. Or, for something really breathtaking (if you’ll excuse the pun), head over to Porthallow for an unforgettable freediving course with the aquatic legends at Aqua City. Of course, if you’d rather just relax, you can do that too – we’re firm advocates of the healing qualities of vitamin sea and the joys of simply plonking oneself on the sand. There are lots of beaches to choose from and the most invigorating sea to paddle in, so simply pick your favourite, check the conditions, and enjoy.

On Land

It cannot be overstated, the Lizard Peninsula is the dreamiest destination for those with a little wild running their veins. If you walk far enough along the coast path, you’re inevitably going to find yourself walking solo for a while and the views are quite simply spectacular at every turn. Naturally, if you’d like to stick to land-based adventures, there is plenty to stick your teeth into. Not literally. Walk the coast path, hire bikes from Lizard Bike Hire, and to soothe tired muscles afterwards, book yourself in for a relaxing spa treatment at either Mullion Cove Hotel or the Polurrian Hotel.

The Events

With a surprisingly rich catalogue of events throughout the year, there’s always something to look forward to on the Lizard. A particular hub for live music and frivolities, the Lizard village is known for its gig nights (of the music variety), regularly hosted by Ann’s Pasties (yes, really) and The Top House pub. Nearby in Cadgwith, gig days (of the rowing variety) take place throughout the year, culminating in the much anticipated Buller Day each August, attended by rowing clubs from across the county.

Also in Cadgwith, weekly fish barbecues are held each Wednesday in summer and entice crowds from near and far, while in Helston, each May is marked with the annual Flora Day which is always a huge success. Just look out for the dancing waves and trees. Meanwhile, in December and early January, each of the peninsula’s coves are decorated with the bright colours of Christmas lights, illuminating winding streets and casting dancing rays across inky seas.

The Wrap

Wild, beautiful and positively unforgettable, the Lizard Peninsula is a real picture of rugged perfection. A crown on the edge of the land, it’s the kind of place that invites you to escape for a while and embrace a different way of life, absorbed by untamed coastalscapes and the thriving heartbeats of local communities with one foot in the present and one fiercely rooted to the past. 

Next stop, France. But really, why would you want to leave?