While Newquay is the UK’s unofficial surfing capital, if you follow the Atlantic Highway an hour north from Cornwall’s most popular surf town, you’ll arrive in Bude. Riddled by waves, and home to a historic surf scene that’s as engrained as its kiss-me-quick beach holiday vibe, Bude is one of our favourite spots to slink off to for a surfing weekend.
Starting from Widemouth Bay, just south of town, to Duckpool, just north of it, there are surf breaks galore for different styles and conditions; all interlaced with cool beach bars, places to stay, hire outlets and surf schools, where you can get all the gear and the know how. And there’s much more besides Bude’s ocean playground.
Here’s how to spend your surfing weekend in Bude:
Widemouth is the first stop for a surf check – a beach break with reefs either end, providing the perfect playground for beginners and pros. Tap up Freewave Surf Academy for lessons and hire, or – if it’s looking a little big or blown out – head to the more sheltered Summerleaze beach in town.
Bude Surfing Experience run surfing lessons on both beaches, according to conditions. If you need to limber up, start with one of their SUP yoga sessions to stretch into your natural surroundings before hitting the waves. Whichever surf school you go with, the sessions include the latest wetsuits and equipment to keep you warm and fast-track your surfing skills.
If you want your own kit, deck yourself out with everything you need at ZumaJay – one of Europe’s longest established independent surf shops. A browse around town is a must between surfs, just to soak up the surfy vibe and dip into the chintzy tourist troves, fill up on delicious goodies from the artisan market, and take a twirl around Bude Castle.
The water-bound fun isn’t relegated to the waves – there are plenty of watersports on offer, from kayaking to coasteering. Whatever you do, don’t leave without taking a dip in the 90m Bude Sea Pool on Summerleaze beach. Backed by colourful beach huts, it’s been a haven for sea swimmers since the 1930’s, and the waves crash right up against its wall as you’re doing your laps on the incoming tide.
Salty locks and sandy toes are welcome at Life’s a Beach, overlooking Summerleaze, where you can sip coffee beside the waves or gorge on all-day platters, from Cuban sandwiches to just-caught fish. There’s a lively atmosphere, with music events on the deck on summery evenings.
Nearby, Elements is a little more formal if you fancy sharing plates and cocktails beside the sea, or take a stroll along the Canal tow path and swap sea views for river views while tucking into tapas at The Bank. If you fancy some gin-spiration as the sun goes down, take a seat overlooking the waves at Widemouth and choose from a huge selection of world-class gins at the Bay View Inn. It’s worth the walk out of town for the sublime sunsets from the upper deck.
Our top pick for your surf break is to snap up a room at one of the coolest seaside B&Bs and beach bars – the Beach House – retro-style accommodation with direct access to the waves on Widemouth Bay, it’s the perfect surf pad and you don’t have to hit town for food and entertainment.
If you’re looking for something a little more sophisticated, book a New England-style retreat beside the waves at The Beach luxury hotel. It’s a little more central so you’ve got the spoils of the town and its beaches on the doorstep. Or, if you don’t mind a five-minute drive to the beach and you fancy somewhere a little more quirky and rustic, bag an eco-friendly Atlantic Surf Pod – basically glamping tailored to surfers.
Take the time to drive north of Bude, just beyond Sandymouth beach to Duckpool. Here at the foot on the Coombe Valley – far from the bucket-and-spade wielding families and gangs of wannabe surfers – awaits a wild beach where mighty cliffs collapse into a rocky beach and, eventually, pockets of sand. There are no trappings except for an ice cream van on the sunniest days. The surf can be pumping here, but there are no lifeguards, so it’s best left to the experts.
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